If you are like most dog owners with middle-aged dogs you fear the increase in health maladies that accompany the aging of his body. Unfortunately, cancer is the number one disease related cause of death among our canine companions. Cancer is a devastating disease that can take its toll on a pet parent financially, physically and emotionally even when the prognosis is good just as it can among people with a family member diagnosed with cancer. While some cancers are not preventable there are steps that you can take to reduce your dog’s chances of developing cancer:

1. Spay/Neuter: Statistics indicate that spayed female dogs have a much lower risk of developing mammary tumors while neutered males have a statistically lower rate of testicular cancer. These findings are significant and should not be ignored as they are a sure way to dramatically reduce your dog’s chances of being diagnosed with these cancers.

2. Fewer vaccinations: The battle over canine and children vaccinations is a controversial subject over which both sides have passionate arguments for. While puppy vaccinations are recommended by almost all Veterinarians some now consider a number of factors before providing yearly vaccinations to your adult dog. Some problems attributed to frequent vaccinations include suppressed immune systems, and impaired health which can shorten your dog’s life. Many veterinarians now believe that a more natural, common sense approach to vaccinations is best for your dog, as opposed to frequent and excessive vaccinations for any potential eventuality. They argue that fewer vaccinations keeps your dog’s immune system strong and may protect your against the possibility of contracting cancer. Ask your Vet for a thorough explanation of why your dog needs any recommended vaccine and never discontinue vaccinations without first talking to your Vet.

3. Provide quality food: While there is no direct link between feeding your dog commercial grade dog food, there are many diseases that are caused by poor nutrition. Dogs who are fed on low grade commercial food are more prone to urinary tract infections, kidney disease, dental disease, obesity and heart disease. While no direct links can be made there are several carcinogenic compounds that turn up in these dog foods from time to time. Good nutrition through higher quality foods can help to promote overall good health which can be a tremendous asset to your dog if he should ever have to undergo cancer treatments.

4. Use vitamins: While there is no guarantee that vitamins and minerals prevent cancer, they can keep your dog’s immune system healthy and more able to fight disease or infections. Some Veterinarians maintain that the administration of antioxidants help dog’s bodies prevent the formation of free radicals and protect against canine cancer onset. Some examples of antioxidants include: Vitamin C, Vitamin A, Vitamin E, selenium, lycopene and beta carotene. Antioxidants are also present in foods and many holistic vets feel that natural or whole food is the best antioxidant source available for your dog. This can be a difficult balance to provide for your dog so always consult your vet before changing or adding to your feeding or vitamin regime.

5. Detoxify his environment: Dogs pick up pesticides, herbicides and other chemicals in your house and yard. Toxic for both you and your dog, these chemicals can potentially cause cancer in your dog. It is best to keep all cleaning products, gasoline type fuels, anti-freeze and pesticides up and out of reach of your dog or locked in floor level cabinets. Also, keep your dog away from the home for several hours if it is being sprayed for bugs. Another factor to consider when detoxifying your dog’s environment is second hand smoke. Studies have shown that the second hand smoke from human cigarette smoking causes higher instances of nasal and lung cancer in canines.

Remember that prevention is important; however, it should not take the place of check-ups and screenings at your Veterinarian’s office. Early detection is key to treating cancer successfully in people as well as their four-legged friends. Article submitted by the generous authors from pet-super-store a site with dog beds for large dogs, extra long dog gates and dog shock collars .

Declawing is the innocuous word used to describe an onychectomy or the surgical removal of a cat’s nails. The most common and least expensive declawing method is known as the Guillotine Method and involves removing the end of the toe bone thus permanently removing the claw with it. This method can cause severe bleeding and when not done properly can crush the ends of the toes. The Blade Excision Method is similar; however, involves a surgical blade removal of the toe bone ends. The least common, most expensive and most time consuming method is the Laser Method. Laser removal reduces bleeding and recovery time for the cat, but is not as popular due to the expense involved.

There is considerable controversy around the topic of declawing and the decision to do so should not be taken lightly. In most European countries, Australia, Brazil, Japan and others, the practice of declawing has been deemed illegal under animal cruelty laws. There are groups mobilizing in the United States to prohibit the practice as well; however, it is still a legal and practiced procedure in the States. Advocates of the procedure argue that cats can be destructive and that declawing helps to ensure that the cat keeps his home over ending up in the shelter for destroying it. Others argue that their cat is kept indoors and does not need the use of her claws to hunt for food or for protection.

Opponents to this procedure argue that it is cruel and inhumane and its practice should be stopped altogether. With many cats escaping from their indoor homes they will need their claws to survive outdoors. Also, millions of cats are surrendered to shelters every year from their former indoor homes. While their previous owner felt it necessary to declaw them it might not be the choice of a potential adoptive family. This camp also maintains that cats use their claws for a variety of other necessary reasons including communication and exercise. They communicate with people and with other animals using their claws. They also use their claws to hang onto an object and stretch and strengthen their legs, lower back and other important body parts. Another argument from this side is that the surgery is simply needless and causes unnecessary pain and possible future complications for no good reason.

In most cases people opt to declaw to prevent damage to possessions; however, there are some cases in which experts agree that declawing is acceptable. In some extremely rare cases a cat may be relieved of a potential health problem by removing the claws. In cases which the owner of the cat has a compromised immune system as a result of HIV or a similar autoimmune related disorder or is undergoing chemotherapy for cancer declawing can be a life-saving procedure for the owner. These patients can not risk the bacteria or infection that could result if scratched by their cat. Again, these situations are rare, but they do happen and are sometimes good reasons for declawing.

Most experts will encourage you try other methods to control scratching before resorting to declawing. Considering declawing is painful and permanent there are other options that could work for you and your feline friend. Introduce your cat to a scratching post and praise her when she uses it. This will reduce her need to claw your drapes and furniture. This sometimes alleviates the problem completely; however, if it does not try placing nail caps on your cat’s claws. These small plastic nail covers slip over the cat’s existing nail and prevent digging into people or possessions for about a month or so. They are inexpensive and come in a variety of colors. If these options do not work consider taking her in for regular nail trimmings at the groomer to keep the nails at a shorter, more furniture-friendly length. There are options if you wish to take the time to explore them before resorting to surgery.

Article submitted by pet-super-store a site with tri-tronics, dogtra and petsafe.

With so much controversy centered on dry dog food and dog food recalls in the news dog owners are increasingly concerned with proper nutrition for their dogs. While there are many excellent dry dog food choices on the market, there are a host of vitamins and minerals to supplement their diets. The dramatic increase in dog popularity has resulted in increased awareness regarding their nutritional needs. With so many supplements on the market it can be confusing to choose what is right for your pooch pal. Before making your choice it is best to familiarize yourself with each ingredient its benefits before making a choice. Here is a list of common supplements or additives for your consideration:

1. Ascorbic Acid: Ascorbic acid is a sugar acid with antioxidant properties that aids in the production of collagen which is important to bone and connective tissue production. Vitamin C is the most common form of ascorbic acid and is produced naturally within a dog’s liver. While Vitamin C is commonly supplemented among humans, it is typically not necessary for dogs. Only dogs with liver disease who are unable to produce their own ascorbic acid would need this particular substance.

2. Bonemeal: This supplement is a sterilized source of animal bones that provides needed calcium and phosphorus. This supplement is ideal for nursing mothers or growing puppies or dogs who eat meat, but not the bones they would typically eat in the wild.

3. Chondroitin: This is a molecule that occurs naturally in the body and is one of the main components in cartilage. Chondroitin keeps cartilage healthy by absorbing fluid into the connective tissue and blocking enzymes that can break cartilage down. Combined with Glucosamine, this supplement can help to stop damage to cartilage and treat osteoarthritis pain.

4. Flaxseed Oil: Derived from flax plants, this essential oil (also known as linseed oil) contains alpha-linolenic acid that helps prevent heart disease, arthritis and other health conditions such as chronic inflammatory disorders. While this supplement can be useful, most Veterinarians agree that fish oil with Omega-3 fatty acids work more efficiently in canines.

5. Glucosamine: This amino sugar is responsible for the synthesis of hyaluronic acid within the joints. Combined with Chondroitin, this supplement can help to rebuild joints and alleviate some pain associated with osteoarthritis.

6. Green Lipped Mussel: This shellfish has long been linked to low rates of arthritis in humans and has just recently been proven to help arthritic dogs. Studies show that when dogs are fed with this supplement their mobility returns in just six weeks.

7. Kelp: Kelp is a well kept secret super food for dogs. Kelp promotes better digestion, healthy skin and coat, higher resistance to infection and even helps healing from an accident or injury. Kelp is high in fiber and acts as a cleanser for the digestive tract.

8. Iron: This essential metal is necessary to carry oxygen to the cells of the body through the blood. Dogs need 36.4 milligrams of iron per pound of food eaten. Most commercial dog foods will provide enough iron for your dog; however, dogs with iron deficiencies will need it as a supplement. Be careful as too much iron in a dog’s system could lead to iron toxicity.

9. Omega-3: Dogs are not able to synthesize fatty acids so they must get them from their diet. If a dog’s diet is not high in these acids they can be supplemented through additives to his diet. Omega-3 fatty acids are extremely helpful in promoting healthy skin and coat and helping with treatment of autoimmune disorders.

10. Yucca: This is an all-natural steroidal supplement and is a natural anti-inflammatory and pain reliever with relatively mild gastric side effects. Yucca can be used for a variety of reasons to relieve pain and inflammation.
 

This article was sent in by the authors from pet super store a site carrying hidden fence, dog training collars and pet doors.

Whether it’s really cold outside or your pet is wearing his favorite sweater, there are times when he’s electric! You bend down to pet him, only to send a shock between the two of you. A little static is not so bad, but what happens if your pooch is plagued all winter long, and every time you try to brush him, his hair is standing straight up? There are some things you can do to help with the shock. And, with a few tips, you may come up with creative solutions on your own.

First, examine the situation. Try to get some ideas as to what is causing the static. During the colder months, our indoor heaters can take a lot of the blame. Heating appliances remove moisture from the air, creating a great environment for static electricity. On top of that, we dress up in thick sweaters and, sometimes, put our dogs in the same type of clothing. In addition to the warm clothing, we wear socks and slippers around the house to keep out feet warm. Many materials are perfect transmitters of static electricity, especially wool, silk, and material made with synthetic fibers.

Once you figure out (or at least have an idea of) what is causing the electric shock, then you can work on ways to lessen the problem. If your heater is pulling all the moisture out of the air, then look at options to put moisture back in the air. Humidifiers can work great for both animals and humans during the winter. The use of a humidifier can get rid of a good amount of the static electricity. It also helps prevent sore throats and dry skin, due to the increased moisture in the air. You can find humidifiers for relatively inexpensive prices. If you can’t put humidifiers throughout your home, then buy one that can be easily moved. Then, you can use it in the den when everyone is gathered around the television, and take it into to your room at night.

If you are dressing your pet up in wool sweaters, then start shopping for cotton. You can find thick cotton sweaters that can still provide warmth for your pooch. You may not want to give up your own wool sweater, but you can throw on a different, less-static filled garment when you get home. Instead of sliding around on socks through your home, try to find house shoes with rubber bottoms; that will also help cut down on the shock.

Now, you can also help your pet’s static problem while you groom. Before you run a brush through his electric hair, get a spray bottle and fill it with water. Lightly mist his coat. Be careful, though, especially if he’s full of tangles, and don’t wet him down too much! Tangles are much easier to remove from a dry (or misted) coat than they are from one that is soaking wet. After you get finished shampooing, make sure you use a good conditioner. The conditioner will help hold moisture in the hair, preventing some static. If you are unsure about what type of conditioner to buy, don’t be afraid to ask a groomer.

When you aren’t grooming your pet, but you notice that his hair is on end, there are a couple of things you can do to help temporarily. Keep a bottle of unscented lotion (many dogs are sensitive to the smelly stuff) on hand. When your pooch looks extra static-y, get a small about of lotion on your hands and rub it through his coat. If you get too much lotion, you’ll have a big, greasy pooch n your hands! This will help tame the static for a little while. Many owners with static-plagued dogs also recommend running a dryer sheet through the hair. You may have to do this multiple times a day (you can reuse the dryer sheet many times), but it can provide temporary relief.

A static-plagued dog is no fun. Not only does he look a little strange, but I’m sure he (or you) doesn’t like to be shocked every time someone reaches down to pet him. Figure out what is causing the static, and work on ways to help your pooch out. You may need to invest in a humidifier, change the clothes you are wearing, or buy a bottle of lotion. Be creative, and find ways to work things out!

This article was provided by the generous authors at pet-super-store, which is an online pet shop featuring: dog car seat covers, pet doors, and pet carriers.